'Tryambakeshwar Kumbh' alongside the 'Naga-Sadhus' - An enchanting personal journey

The instant-messaging group name promptly changed to “Kumbh-Karn”, at a near flight miss due to sleep of gigantic proportions by a traveling companion. There were 4 - 3 Mysore lads & a Bangalore yoga teacher .... ' I ' 

The story begins....

Braving a minor injury... red 'dupata' wrapped around the neck as support, we make our way out of Mumbai Airport in search for a cab to take us to Nasik... to the “Kumbh Mela”

Myth has it, as the 'Deva' & 'Asuras' were churning the ocean of milk for 'amrit' (divine ambrosia) a heavenly fight ensued for it's possession. Out of the 'kumbh' (pot) 4 drops landed at four locations – at Allahabad, in the 'Triveni' (confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna & mythical Saraswati), at Haridwar in the Ganga, at Ujjain in the river Shipra & at Nasik in the 'Godavari'; sanctifying these locations. To attend a Kumbh, therefore, is to celebrate good's triumph over evil, to bathe in the waters is to renew & cleanse oneself of the sins & to partake of divinity/ god-hood/ blessing. Astrologically determined, the twelve year cycles, alternate in such a way that about every three years a 'Kumbh Mela' takes place.

Our chariot readies to ride us towards divine nectar ! But first; we go with a “feel” - a quintessential Mumbai breakfast of 'vada- pao'. Right opposite Chattrapati Shivaji International Airport, down a lane where private cabbies park, sits a friendly 'Marathi' lady doling out fluffy bread sandwiched with melt-in-the-mouth fried 'vadas'. The accompanying chutney provides an edge! Scrumptious ! Well fed; a wobbly 4 hour ride through lush, verdant, green meadowy 'ghats' (with ample chai breaks) bring us to the bustling city of Nasik. We scout around.... listen for “feelings” . It's lost in the city din! The heart navigates to the temple Town of 'Tryambakeshwar', some 35 kilometers from Nasik. We are made aware; an earlier conflict led to a segregation of the Mela – Nasik holds campsites for 'Vaishnavites' (Vishnhu Bhakts) & Trymbakeshwar, the Shaivites (Shiva Bhakts). This division results in a smaller scale of settlement, one that I was unprepared for and pleasantly surprised at. The last attended 'Maha-Kumbh Mela' held in Haridwar in 2010, was a far cry from this. Here, camps were knit together intimately in a valley between canyons. Only 4 'akhadas' set camp at Tryambakeshwar. At a distance, atop “Neel Parbat” a trident stood tall, grand, imposing, proclaiming - “We are here – Shiva's army! We fight! We protect ! We guard the “Santana-Dharma”. The campsite of the naga-sadhus; warriors of the “Juna Akhada”

Naga Sadhus from all across India, attend Kumb Melas. The earliest recording of the mela is found in Chinese traveller, Hieun Tsang's accounts from his visits in 629 -645 CE - he records huge masses of naked men coming together to bathe in holy waters of India. Though sadhus in general can de characterized as peace-loving, the Nagas used to be extremely militant, fighting with rivaling sects, the Muslims and later even the British. They were excellent fighters for they had no fear of death. Hieun Tsang records about this fierceness of the Indian holy men who defended “Sanatana-Dharma” , ready to die defending the faith. In later years, Shankaracharya, provided structure to this brotherhood, sub-dividing them into “Akhadas” or regiments like an army. One such regiment is the “Juna Akhada”believed, argued & defended to be the oldest.

We make the steep ascend of 200 steps towards the summit. Apart from the temple of 'Nilamba Matamba', there is an old 'akhada or mutt' of the 'Gosavi' sect and an ancient temple of Sadguru 'Dattatraya' – the presiding deity of 'Juna – akhada'. Traversing the ancient path sadhus & holy men of India treaded upon ; we witnessed 21^st century meeting an ancient celebration. Small tents dotted the path in which sat the 'naga-sadhus' in front of their 'dhunis' (fire-pit), huddled groups of sadhus & kumbh travelers, smoking 'chillums', drinking 'chai', receiving donations, giving blessings,performing 'hatha-yoga' postures, demonstrating 'siddhis' of their 'tapasya'.

Today, most naga-sadhus have mobile phones, social-media presence & oblige curious onlookers, who take the opportunity to capture ancient customs with modern technology. 

Click! Click! Click! 

While some thrive at the attention , others take offence & demonstrate their ire with erratic behaviour, flinging abuses in Hindi. We are cautious, sensitive, move with respect.

An ancient 'mela' set in modern times - teeming with life on this path. 

Enchanting!

Intriguing!

Magical !

Frequent travels in Rishikesh brought me in contact with naga- sadhus of higher positions within 'Juna Akhada' - Mahant Dayananda Puri has been known to me for few years.

He welcomes us as guests. We politely turn down an offer to stay at camp & find ourselves a hotel room at the bottom of the hill close to the temple. Located at the busiest intersection, I take delight at witnessing hordes of people come & go – a sea of humanity! The Public Announcement system makes round-the-clock announcements for missing people. People hold each others hands as humanity flows by narrow lanes. Often quoted as “the largest peaceful gathering in the world” – an estimated 10 lakh people at the Maha Kumbh of Haridwar. 

“The Kumbha Mela lasts about a month and there are several important bathing days. The main event is the shahi snan, or ‘emperor’s bath’, when all Akhadas form processions to go to the 'right spot' along the river, wanting to be there at around the 'right time', when the divine planetary influences are most auspicious, to jump into the water. In the past, fights between rival sects took place because everybody wanted to be at the same spot at the same time, but during British rule orders of precedence were fixed, a little different for every mela so that all rival sects would be content”

The auspicious hour marked is between 04:15 am until 12 noon on 12th September - the Royal Bath times are set by members of the 'Juna – Akhada' establishing the importance of this regiment above others, irrespective of other disputed claims. 

As guests of Juna – Akhada, we were invited to join the procession. Mahant Dayananda Puri-ji advices us to rest through the day in preparation of what lay ahead. On 'Amavasya' night of 11^th September, we arrive Neel Parbat to observe “jaagran” (staying up the night) before beginning the procession. Burning the mid-night oil consists mainly of 'bonhomie' – an occasional 'satsang' (spiritual discourses) or 'bhajan' (songs of devotion), amidst endless rounds of 'chillum' prepared by 'chelas' (disciples). Non-smoker makes do with syrupy-chai.

The hour is upon us. A ceremony marks the start. With stealth & purpose brotherhood leaders begin a royal procession enjoined by seers & Mahants of other 'akhadas' moving towards 'Kushavartha Teerth' (holy pond). it gathers momentum , growing stronger & slogans of “har har mahadev” echo through the dark valley. Proclaiming allegiance to the dark-one, on the darkest night. Har-Har-Mahadev!

Located a 5 min walk away from main temple is the sacred pond "Kushavarta", from where river Ganga (Godavari) takes her route to the rest of India. Due to the earlier conflicts, the 'sadhus' belonging to "Vaishnav" sect take bath in Godavari at Ram Kund, Panchavati, Nasik and those belonging to "Shaiva" sect take bath here. Since Godavari (Ganga) flows from here and reaches at Ram Kund, both are considered pious. This rule was set by Peshawa during the time where in one of the Kumbh mela these two groups fought with each other over who would take the holy bath first which resulted in hundreds of death

The growing frenzy scatters us - 1 finds himself marching onwards while 3 of us get separated from the 'Juna Akhada' due to the strong current of people & strong policing - “What was a women doing amongst the naga sadhus?” - I was stopped ! Much later on my return, am made aware that “sadhavis” are placed at the centre, safe-guarded against this primal march. Nonetheless barefoot, we continue, join in other regiments, partake in their energy.... it's a caravan, a float... devas, indras, asuras, rakshasa.... the pantheon of hindu gods & demi-gods... all marching towards a drop of 'amrit'

Dawn breaks, day breaks, a stunning sun-rise behind clouds & canyons makes for a surreal experience. September 12^th is New Moon & Solar eclipse! We have until 12 noon! Endless wandering in the streets of a temple town waiting for an opportune moment. “When the time is right”, he says. On questioning Surendra Puri-Ji on the significance of 'shahi-snan', he answers with a twinkle in his eye, “you take the bath & you will know” & goes back to beating on the 'damaru' (rattle-drum).

Already bathed with the brotherhood, he patiently supports our quest. An impressive 'naga' figure leading us to the 'snan', stopping on the way to address crowds, sitting by the wayside to drink tea from the innumerable stalls set up for weary seekers & sharing stories along the way.

“When the time is right”!

It's 'tapasya' and having tested our faith, after what seemed like eternity, 'Shiva' shows the way. The path miraculously clears, we are inside the sacred pond. Not a moment to spare as crowds continue incessantly – we take the dip, take two , fill jars with the 'amrit' and we walk on.... the answer to that question is answered!

Through the rest of day and night humanity relentlessly continues . We are tired though too ecstatic to rest. But one must still the body & the mind. On the night of 12^th September; being awake for over 24 hours, over the incessant announcements for 'lost -souls, the 4 sleep .... gigantic proportions!

A smaller, though not less significant quest was to receive 'darshan' in the beautiful Tryambaskeshwar temple - one of the holiest and sacred place for Hindu pilgrims, revered as part of the 12 Jyotirlingaas shrines of Lord Shiva. The temple lies in the foothill of mountain Bramhagiri which is the origin of river Ganga (Godavari).

Monday being 'Shiva's' day, we are hopeful. The quest, no small feat - a queue more than 2-3 kilometers long, another 6 – 7 hours wait, was not something we desired. Perhaps the fire of 'tapasya' was doused. It required to be re- kindled! For now, we let go, knowing in our hearts we would return. As luck would have it, the same evening, we witnessed a ceremonious 'Ganga -Arati' at Kushavarta. A daily ritual of the naga-sadhus, accompanied to 'shlokas' by temple priests provided a rare sight.

Meanwhile, some naga-sadhus atop a hill, begin to disperse. This celebration draws a closure. Onwards to 18^th September for the next 'snan' in Panchavarti, Nasik. The Vishnu-bhakts form the backdrop to the next story. The 'samapam-snan' (final bath) will be back at Trymbakeshwar on 25^th September. The naga -sadhus continue with the celebrations. Some remain, others journey to temples.. to receive 'darshan'. 

The life of a naga-sadhu is a pilgrimage!

A 'tirth' !

Detached ... wandering - these holy men of India!

My 'thirt' draws to a closure - a solo bus ride brings me to Bombay where one spends time by the ocean; assimilating the experience. A four day journey through this incredible labyrinth. Looking out at the expanse of water... one feels 'fire'. It's akin to lucid dreams - of circles, squares, triangles & the "single point of Shiva & Shakti"! The collective energy of humanity focussed on a single quest is powerful. Modernity juxtaposed alongside ancient. The delicate balance between tradition, religious celebration, commerce & technology. Archetypes imprinted in the collective consciousness drawing people from all walks of life....

With bated breath and longing in the heart, I wait, for the next drop of nectar... 

___________________________

Picture credit : Ganesh Shreyas

References:
1. http://www.adolphus.nl/sadhus/index.html
2. https://rampuri.com/
3. http://kumbhmela.bloggerji.com/